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Journal · 2025-04-22

Trizonia: the car-free island Onassis used to slip into

Most people drive past the Gulf of Corinth without realising it has an inhabited island. Trizonia sits about an hour west of Itea by boat, has no cars, no big hotels, and a few dozen residents who run the tavernas, the small marina, and not much else. It is the kind of place yacht crews talk about quietly so it stays that way.

Aerial view of Trizonia island, Gulf of Corinth, Greece
Trizonia from above - the only inhabited island in the Gulf of Corinth.

Where Trizonia is

Trizonia is a small green island off the northern shore of the Gulf of Corinth, between Galaxidi and Nafpaktos. From Itea port, it is about an hour by boat across open gulf water - flat in the morning, often glassy at sunset.

The island is roughly 2.5 km long, covered in pine trees, with a single village wrapped around a natural bay on the south side. From the air the shape looks like a comma laid on the sea, with shallow turquoise on one side and deep blue on the other.

No cars, on purpose

There are no cars on Trizonia. Not banned for show - there is simply no road network and no car ferry. You walk everywhere, which on an island this size means everywhere is five minutes away.

The result is the quietest village you will visit on this side of Greece. The loudest sound is usually a halyard tapping on a mast in the marina.

The Onassis story

In the 1960s and 70s, Trizonia became one of the discreet stops on the yachting route between the Ionian and the Aegean. Aristotle Onassis used the bay as a sheltered overnight anchorage on the Christina O, and friends from his circle followed - the kind of guests who wanted somewhere with no press and no paparazzi.

There is no plaque, no museum, no tour. The locals will mention it if you ask over a glass of wine. The island has stayed almost exactly as it was then, which is the whole point.

What to actually do there

Swim off the boat in the bay - the water is clear and deep right up to the shore. Walk the loop around the village in 20 minutes. Hike the pine trail to the small chapel on the west headland for the view back over the gulf toward Parnassus.

Then sit at one of the four or five tavernas right on the water and order whatever the fisherman brought in that morning. Grilled fish, a Greek salad, a carafe of cold white. That is the day.

Hidden gem of the gulf

Trizonia is the kind of place that does not fit the usual Greek-island marketing - no whitewashed cliffs, no famous beach, no nightlife. What it has is silence, pine, deep clean water, and the feeling that you have slipped sideways out of the busy version of Greece.

Most of our guests on the full-day trip end up saying the same thing on the way back: they did not know this existed an hour from Delphi.

How to get there

By boat from Itea is the easiest way and the only way you see the coastline. Our full-day trip runs from 10:00 to around 21:00, with swim stops on the way out, lunch on Trizonia, and the return across the gulf at sunset.

There is also a tiny passenger ferry from Glyfada on the mainland (about 5 minutes), but you would still need to drive there - and you would miss the gulf itself, which is most of the point.

Common questions

How long does the boat trip to Trizonia take?

About one hour each way from Itea. We do it as a full-day trip, leaving around 10:00 and returning at sunset.

Is there anywhere to eat on Trizonia?

Yes - four or five small tavernas on the waterfront, all family-run. Lunch is not included in the trip price; budget around 20-25 EUR per person.

Can I stay overnight on Trizonia?

There are a couple of small guesthouses, but they fill up. Most visitors come for the day. We can arrange overnight pickups by request.

Is Trizonia good for kids?

Very. No cars, calm sheltered swimming, short walks, and friendly tavernas. One of our most family-friendly trips.

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