Lunch by the port
The seafront tavernas are touristy in July and August but the quality is honest. Order grilled fish of the day, Greek salad, a plate of fried zucchini, and house white wine. Skip the menu translations and ask what's fresh.
For real fish
Walk one block back from the seafront. The places without sea view tend to take their fish more seriously. Whole sea bream or sea bass, charcoal-grilled, lemon and olive oil. That's it.
Coffee and breakfast
The cafés along the promenade open early. Greek coffee or freddo espresso, a koulouri (sesame bread ring), and you're set for a morning at Delphi.
Dinner with a view
Eat late, like the locals - 21:00 onwards. Grab an outside table, watch the gulf go dark, and order a few mezze instead of mains: taramasalata, grilled octopus, fried calamari, tzatziki.
If you have a car
Drive 20 minutes west to Galaxidi. The old harbour and the seafood tavernas there are worth the trip. Some people prefer dinner in Galaxidi over Itea.
Common questions
Do I need to book?
In July and August, yes for dinner. Off-season, walk in.
Is the fish actually fresh?
On the gulf, yes. Ask which fish came in that morning.
Vegetarian options?
Plenty. Greek mezze culture is very vegetable-friendly: gigantes, dolmades, fava, grilled vegetables, salads.